What’s New

February 2018

Sextant Users Guide

3 Simple Steps to Reduce Condensation

Perkins-M20-25-30-35 Operating Instructions

Perkins 100 Series Workshop Manual

October 2017

Repair Manual – Kanzaki zf_gearbox

Yanmar Tech Bulletin – Gearbox Position when Sailing?

Radian Rule – Navigation

COLREGS Summary and Action Chart – Navigation

Tsunami Effect of Cruise Ship – Seamanship

Dangerous Semicircle Essay in Weather

Jordan Series Drogue Instructions – PDF

Beaufort Scale   (PDF)

Weather, Barometer, and Wind  (in PDF form)

Barometer, Wind and Temperature WX  (in PDF form)

i put both of the above forms on a single sheet of paper and laminated it for waterproofness.

Good Source for Cheap Antifouling and Epoxy especially post #20

September 2017

Wavetrain Techniques and Tactics 

August 2017

Diesel Water Vapor Trap – less than $5 – solution to bugs in diesel fuel.

July 2017

Jeff H. on Singlehandling

Electrical Systems 101

MaineSail on the 1 Both 2 Off Switch

SmartGauge Electrical Explanations

ABYC specs 182.455

Surface Winds Realtime Visual Representation 

Ocean Prediction Center’s Radiofacsimile Charts User’s Guide

Added Colregs to Navigation

Reorganized and renamed Navigation, Seamanship andWeather


Ocean Pilot Charts


View from the stern of Walter Pelley’s H38 Avatar – Canada Day Sailpast

Bosun’s Chair Review

The $100 Chart Plotter

June 2017

IC-M700 Instruction Manual – i bought an Icom M700SSB radio

Coastal Climate Control – Marine Cooling Systems

Ocean Planet Energy Inc. – Marine Energy Systems

Product Reviews from Pacific NW Boater

(i was interested in the H2Out product to keep the boat or diesel fuel dry, but i learned you anc just buy Silica Gel Dessicant Beads, cotton bags and make your own, for a LOT less money 😉

Revised sail dimensions for Double Headsail Rig based upon Donald Street’s recommendations from The Ocean Sailing Yacht vol.2

“Hughes 38 Sales Brochures” has been added to the end of “History of Hughes Boatworks”

Update to “Commodore’s Blog”

Lynn and Larry Pardee’s review of the Hughes 38 is now added to “Performance Reports”

“Considerations for Repowering the Atomic 4” has now been added to “Engine Resources”

All galley, chart table, saloon, V-berth, and head photos have been regrouped under the heading “Interior”

Galeatea V at anchor 2

Galeatea V at anchor – thanks Anthony

May 2017

The Stingy Sailor – Greats Ideas for Saving Money

Torking Keel Bolts

Torking Bolts

Mariners Guide to Hurricanes in North Atlantic 

A Cruisers Guide to Cape Breton Island


Almost home in Wiskejak

Thru hulls and Seacocks by Raritan – while maybe not the “best” they meet all standards and are exceptional values.

PDFs of how to use the Tru-Design system


Wiskejak Off Cape Croker

SV Wiskejak – off Cape Croker – May 21


SV Wiskejak – the $1 boat – ready to get underway up Georgian Bay to the North Channel

Replacement LEDs

April 2017

The One Dollar Sailboat

The Sailboat Cruiser

Making Your Own Lures

Handline Fishing

Causes of Prop Walk

Run Your Diesel HARD

March 2017

Details of Mast Step, Hull/Deck Joint, Watertanks in Construction Details

Online List of Navigational Charts and Guidebooks

Universal M25 Service Manual

Universal M25 Owners Manual

Universal Engine Info Link

Learn to Sail – a very good basic course

Commodore’s New Spinnaker, Sock, and Tacker see in Blog

How to Steer Without a Rudder

Drogue Steering

Compass Compensation

Navigation Course PDF

Navigation Course Online

Steve and Linda Dashew gift to you:  a lifetime of free knowledge.

There is sooooo much information in these books that it will take me years to absorb it all.  Thanks Steve and Linda!  Merçi! Danka Schoen! Gracias! Obrigado!

You can get them here:       http://www.setsail.com/free-books/

Or you can get all four of them right here:

Mariners Weather Handbook

Surviving the Storm

Practical Seamanship

Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia

Thanks Gary and friend (former H38 owner) for the following information about the A4:

Atomic 4 Transmission Service Manual

Indego Electronic Ignition for Atomic 4

Tune-up Parts for the Atomic 4

Article from Canadian Yachting on Howard Hughes – in History

February 2017

New Photo of Wheel for Trim Tab in Changes and Options

Tiller Photo in Cinkel Pedestal  Steering

http://passageweather.com/  in Seamanship

January 2017

Vessel Lights App – in Playstore (teaches and tests knowledge of Vessel Lights as prescribed by the IRPCS)

IALA-Buoyage-Systems A and B

Hurricanes  from NOAA

US Aids To Navigation Guide

Atomic 4 Repair and Maintenance

Canadian Aids to Navigation

The above chart here:

More Hughes history from Bill Kinney with SV Fetchin’ Ketch (Northstar 80/20) in “History”

Added photo of SV Witch of Atlas in “Racing”

Added photo of A4 in SV NorWester in “Atomic 4”

Added photo  of trimtab on SV NorWester in “Changes and Options”

December 2016

Hull Deck Joint on the Northstar 80/20 in Construction Details

Engine Resources has been combined with Propeller and a new section added called Seamanship

Savvy Salts Videos

Corrosion Block


Marine LED Shop


Yanmar-2qm15_Service Manual

New Bowsprit in Owners Modifications

LED Source

November 2016


Marine Radio Fax Broadcast Schedules

Noaa Weather Fax Charts

Reconstruction of a Columbia 38 

Volvo Penta Marine Diesel Schematics

Universal Marine Engine Schematics

Crew Over Board Procedures

New page on Hinckley 38 with evidence that it is not the same design as the Hughes 38.

Peter Smith (Developer of the Rocna Anchor) has a good discussion on rodes here:

Emergency Tiller –  Every boat should have a useable emergency tiller.  On the MK3 the tiller head is forward of the pedestal making for an easy emergency tiller.  Here are some pics of a Cal 40 tiller and tiller head:


A video for the above tiller

For the Hughes 38 MK3 i get distances of 52″, 46″, 40″ and 36″ from the center of the tiller head to the aft end of the cabin roof (by scaling).  This is obviously not very accurate.  Does anybody have a better measurement for max tiller length for easiest steering?


Homemade Hunter Emergency Tiller

Chains, Ropes and Anchors   A good source of anchoring equipment information

I spend time cruising the sailing forums – i don’t post much because they are a vast wasteland.  BUT like in wastelands you can find golden nuggets like these free ebooks by Steve and Linda Dashew.  Well worth your time to read.  i’m currently reading Practical Seamanship.

SetSail FPB – Free Books

Mariner’s Weather Handbook by Steve and Linda Dashew

Surviving the Storm  by Steve and Linda Dashew

Practical Seamanship  by Steve and Linda Dashew

Offshore Cruising Encyclopaedia  by Steve and Linda Dashew


Dana and Dee with SV Kiskadee

Cal 40 Restoration Video Series

Edson Manual Pump Demonstration

October 2016


Trim tab discussion inclucing pic of Hinckley 38 with trim tab

Owner Modifications

Bowsprit picture

Pulpit on bowsprit picture

Home Page

Photo of Galatea V under sail

Who’s Who

More on Galatea V from Tony

Commodore’s Preferences

Edson Manual Pumps – 30gpm with 2 Pics and PDFs

Don Street on Edson Manual Pumps

Coast Pilots – Atlantic Canada

Sta-Loc fittings

My Team Talks – bluetooth headsets

Sailing the Farm

Rigging – more on the tall rig and photo!

Commodore’s Blog – 2 new posts

Hughes 48 page – new

Wallas Diesel Stove/Heater   – Pricey but very good


Snubber Diameter

Construction and Maintenance

I Broomfield of RI on keel bolt replacement

More on Keel bolt replacement – Mars Keel

Photos of Chainplate Detail, Stringers in Forward cabin and Main cabin

Keep Your Keel On – Sail Magazine

Taken from Maine Sail on Sailnet 

There are a few ways to re-bed a keel and none of them, for me, would involve only a standard epoxy. Fin keels on older boats will move and flex some. They can be essentially a live joint unless you physically wrap the keel with lamination’s of glass which many have done after re-sets. Epoxy it on and it will still move or flex some. A flexible epoxy in conjunction with a marine sealant will work better.

Unfortunately standard epoxy has minimal elongation before break so when it flexes it will fail considerably quicker than a flexible marine sealant. A product like a polyurethane can have a flexible range of 450% to 800% of the joint thickness thus allowing for movement/flex and the differing expansion contraction coefficients between the lead and the polyester/glass laminate. On a low aspect lead keel the flex is much more minimal and epoxy may be an okay choice but on a fin it is a likely short life before water gets to the keel bolts unless it was of the flexible type. Some manufacturers use special epoxies from the factory but even builders like Morris use a polyurethane sealant.

The best method I’ve seen where epoxy is involved is to mix an epoxy butter and then heavily wax the lead keel & bolts, or use mylar tape, or better yet grease the bolts. Drop the boat onto the keel and epoxy butter, let it cure lift boat off. Now you have a nicely matched hull to keel joint like a cylinder head to an engine block. You can also do it in reverse but I prefer the bond of epoxy to fiberglass as opposed to epoxy to lead for the epoxy butter mixture though either is probably fine as epoxy is tenacious.

Next you take a Dremel tool and cut a shallow v-groove into the top of the lead face of the keel that meets the hull. A laminate trimmer and edge guide with v-bit works better if the keel is wide enough for it to fit. Go all the way around the keel about 3/8 to 1/2″ in from the outer edge until you complete a circle and the v-groove joins its self. Now apply a marine sealant, I like Sikaflex but 5200 is also good as is 4200, and drop the boat back down. The v-groove makes a nice thick gasket that can absorb lots more flexing than no thickness or minimal thickness. A 1/8″ thick bead at the v-groove, of 5200, 4200 or Sika will stretch and move a LOT more than 1/64th of an inch of sealant before a failure. 600% of 1/8″ is much more allowable movement than 800% of 1/64″.

Most all builders do not take the time to make a “gasket groove” or to “butter match” the hull to the shape of the keel. It involves a lot more time than builders are willing to exert or spend time/$$ on.

For anyone’s sake I would not advise solely the use of standard epoxy to bed a fin keel on a production boat. You may need some allowable movement as the forces on a fin keel are tremendous. I’ve yet to see very many that did not move some.

Any movement with standard epoxy will likely mean failure. Just because a fairing compound has cracked due to movement does not mean the marine sealant between the hull and keel has. All one needs to do is look at the raw number of boats in yards with fairing cracks along the keel/hull joint to see why using epoxy on an older hull as the sole sealant may lead to trouble. If the fairing cracks so then will the epoxy.

Here’s a link to a good description, of “butter matching” the keel/hull joint, though they did not cut a sealant/gasket groove..

Rebedding the Keel – Stella Blue

Keel Maintenance by William Souter

Engine Resources

Kanzaki Transmission Service Manual

Transmission Schematic

September 2016  – this month i’ve added a bunch of links from author Don Casey (in italics)

General Nautical Links

Weather Charts by E-mail from NOAA



The Better Bahamian Moor


Electric and Electronic 

Electrical Work Rules

Understanding the Three-Stage Regulator

Lightning Precautions

There is nothing wrong with your radio


Construction Details and Repair

Sailors  Should  Sew

A Little Help from  the  Sun

Help! We’re Sinking

Choosing and Using Sealants

Fire on Board!

String of Pearls – Tidbits from Don Casey

Good article, but in my opinion, he is wrong about bedding deck fittings.  Use butyl tape.  Here is how:  Butyl Tape 

Ventilation Basics

Z is for zinc

Keel Bolt Concerns

Keel Bolt Repairs


Who’s Who

Pictures of Hughes 38 Owners Boats

Home Page

SV Windflower  Stern

August 2016


SV Avatar wins Race the Cape

SV Avatar’s winning crew in fine form